To say that New Haven, Connecticut, a city of about 135,000 people nestled smack dab in the middle of the Connecticut Sound and the home of Yale University, has been on the collective foodie radar for a while now is only partially true. Yes, it is home to two of the most storied pizza/apizza haunts in the U.S. - Sally's Apizza and Frank Pepe's - both of which get, and deserve, a ton of hungry attention. But there is much more going on in this nearly 400 year old New England city, so much more. So, in an attempt to give it just some of the props that it's non-tomato or white-sauced based culinary options deserve, we hopped on over there a few weekends in a row to eat our way about town. We are happy to report that we've come back a bit more sated, and with waistlines that a bit more, shall we say, pronounced.
Olea, opened in 2014 and helmed by Chef Manuel Romero, is located about a block away from Yale's old campus and features the Chef's spin on Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine in a clean, crisp and modern setting. We can say without equivocation that Olea belongs near the top of any list about the best places to eat in New Haven (and maybe even all of Connecticut). We loved the pan seared sea scallops (with cauliflower, potato, aji amarillo, puffed quinoa and bell pepper-mango vinaigrette) so much that we've thought about printing the below image on a 5 foot canvas and putting it next to the bed just so we can stare at. It's a gorgeous, sumptuous plate.
Olea also serves that monosaturated, nutty goodness that is Jamón Ibérico, which is reason enough to head over there. But, what really got us was the night's special salad - baby kale, super thinly sliced pear and some other magic (what was that salad dressing?) that we failed to write down because we were too busy shoveling it into our gullets. Possibly the best salad appetizer I've ever had (it's been a few weeks, and we're still bringing it up in conversation). Next time we swing by, and there most definitely will be a next time, we're opting for the Cochinillo (roasted boneless suckling pig, lemon, thyme, honey-port wine, with parmesan cheese dauphinoise potato, and petit mesclun salad) (just note that you have to allow 35 minutes for the dish to be prepared). Oh, and the desserts. We don't have much by way of a sweet tooth (although New Haven tested that characteristic a bit, as you'll see with some of our brunch options), but their multi-tiered play on chocolate was divine. We ate all of it (white chocolate soup?? C'mon!?). Just go there already.
Tavern on State is a charmingly cozy, wood-paneled and romantically lit spot located a bit northeast of downtown New Haven. The menu changes frequently (as many great menus do) but, at our visit, included some clear winners, such as pan seared half chicken (with parmesan polenta, leek soubise, grilled baby leeks and crispy shallot), fried squid (with smoked red pepper ragout, pickled shallot [a nice touch], shaved fennel and parsley salad) and pan seared halibut in lemongrass dashi (with hakurei turnips and greens, pearl onions and crispy shiitakes).
It's a fun, boisterous location that feels equally chocked full of locals and those just passing through. And being a tavern, they have a great selection of hand-crafted cocktails - I had the Zona Rosa (featuring mezcal, aperol, dry vermouth, habanero-grapefruit cordial, pineapple and cinnamon) and loved it. Note that, so as to better control the timing of your meal, the chef does ask that you place your entire order at once (so stop gossiping and figure out what deliciousness you want for the evening).
Do you like brunch? Of course you do! That being the case, we suggest you beeline it directly to Bella's Cafe located on Whalley Ave. in Westville (a 10 minute ride from one of our hotel recommendations, the Blake Hotel). Some of their amazing (and amazingly filling) dishes include the Catfish Rancheros (a special which is extremely popular and can sell out quickly), the Torta Regina Pancakes (buttermilk pancakes filled with hazelnuts, orange and lemon zest, bittersweet chocolate chips and topped with mascarpone cheese, vanilla crème anglaise, bourbon caramel and a chocolate grenache drizzle) and the Oscar Benedict (chuck tender over an English muffin topped with poached eggs, asparagus and a crab béarnaise). It is, for good reason, a very popular spot (we've seen people start to line up well before its 8am opening time), so get there early. And come hungry.
If you are looking for smaller bites, perhaps, or just some well crafted caffeinated beverages to fuel your next adventure, Pistachio Café, also located in Westville, offers up a wide selection of Turkish and Syrian coffees (and related sweet treats) as well as cold brews, specialty coffees and good-old-fashioned drip coffee. It's eclectic setting is as cute, inviting and comfortable as it is tasty. They also have a relatively new brunch menu, which includes amazing little noshes like the Dried Fig Salad (with arugula, feta, green applies and walnuts in a lemon maniple syrup dressing) and an assortment of scrumptious tartines (including the awesome green olives on sourdough bread, labneh and Za'atar).
There are, of course, many other eateries in the area deserving your time and attention. Some other great options, to name just a few, include: Zinc, a New Haven staple since 1999, which offers up modern American food in a sleek, contemporary setting and an impressively curated wine list, Mecha Noodle Bar if you're in the mood for Bao, Ramen or Pho (and aren't we always), or the New Haven location of Barcelona Wine Bar which serves up an ever changing menu of Spanish style tapas, to be paired with a largely Spanish and South African wine list. And, of course, there are those afore-mentioned pizza and apizza joints everyone raves about - Sally's Apizza and the original Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, both of which have a huge cult following (so either order ahead or steel yourself for a bit of a line).
When it's aperitif or digestif time, New Haven has you covered there as well. We loved the breadth of knowledge that the barkeeps at 116 Crown possessed (and were willing to share with us) at their luminous bar. The Outre (Toki Japanese whiskey, Roku gin, egg white, grenadine, agave syrup, and lemon juice - served on the rocks) was a creamy, yet refreshing glass of heaven (so much so that we'd like to have it pipped in directly to our kitchen and/or shower). They also have some great bites, including classic deviled eggs and a charcuterie board featuring, amongst other things, smoked duck breast.
The Ordinary, one of the oldest taverns in New Haven (which is saying something, given that the city was founded in 1638), is another great option and serves up a magical medley of current signature cocktails (like the Red Beanie (consisting of Rayu Mezcal, Campari, Amargo Vallet and Cardamom Oil)), a bevy of classic cocktails (think Sazerac and Bee's Knees) and their take on vintage ultra classics that just scream 1920's speakeasy and flapper hats (like the rum and apricot based Gladrags or the bourbon, honey and lemon Sockdollager). It's a great, dark and ambiance dripping bar, with a long and interesting history, and is definitely worth a visit.
If you're ready for a nap, New Haven has more than a few congenial options. Located on the corner of George and High streets, just a few blocks from the Shubert Theater, College Street Music Hall and the many great eateries and bars on Chapel Street, The Blake Hotel (named after Yale's first female graduate) offers up a clean, modern and comfortable home base in the center of New Haven. It's High George rooftop bar is a great perch from which to plan your adventures (and, bonus, it is enclosed/heated in the winter) and on-site restaurant, Hamilton Park, offers dinner, drinks and a separate lounge menu if your too sedate to travel far. The rooms are bright and sleek, with plenty of space to stretch out after a day spent feasting on this foodie town. And, as a fun additional little tidbit - upon arrival they offer you coffee service delivered to your room in the morning, which is a nice touch (although there is also a Nespresso in each room, with complementary pods, if that's more your cup of tea (pun intended)).
The Study at Yale, just around the corner, takes its concept directly from the citadel of higher learning to which it sits adjacent. Adorned with photos of Yale's campus and resembling a mix between a classic university library and a boutique Midtown lounge, the hotel offers direct views of Yale University's campus and is centrally located for easy access to many of the school's museums and galleries (including, but not limited to, the Yale University Art Gallery and the Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library, each of which are open to the public). It's a centrally located, serene spot from which to take in the town.
In short, New Haven has a lot more to offer than just great pizza (although, it definitely has great pizza). Save some room after a slice or two and stay a bit longer, branch out a bit, and see what some of the other local chefs are up to. You'll be happy you did.
These are just some of the best restaurants, bars and hotels in New Haven, Connecticut, but there is so much more to see.
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