Northern California beckons with a siren song of towering redwoods, dramatic coastlines, and a well-established wine and culinary scene that rivals some of best in the world. This curated three day food and wine travel guide promises an exploration of tasty terroir and artistry, luxurious lodgings and pampered experiences that will all but demand a return trip.
Day 1: A Symphony of Senses in Sonoma County
Our journey to Northern Cali begins in the verdant tapestry of Sonoma County. For a base of operations, we suggest the Farmhouse Inn, a 25-room haven of rustic elegance nestled amidst Sonoma's famed rolling vineyards. The vibe here is elegant country-chic, so prepare yourself for two person soaking tubs, steam showers and in-room wood burning fireplaces. The on-site Wellness Barn is a nature-focused spa and wellness center, with offerings including the “Shinrin-Yoku” (Forest Bath), designed to reduce stress and anxiety, while improving sleep and bolstering you immune system. Another amazing option is the inn at Single Thread Farms (which also houses one of the best restaurants in the area (see below)). With beautifully appointed modern country rooms, complimentary multi-course breakfast for two and the option to indulge in an in-room Hot Pot Donabe Dinner, you might find yourself unwilling to check out.
Being in Sonoma, CA, you'd be remiss if you didn't indulge, at least a little, in the some of the areas famous wineries. We'd suggest you start with some of the classics; i.e, those wineries that helped to put Sonoma County on the map. And, along that vein, you couldn't go wrong with Iron Horse Vineyards. Founded in 1976, the fine folks at Iron Horse Vineyards have mastered sparkling wines, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (so much so that their wines have been known to grace the tables of White House state dinners). Another great option is Hanzell Vineyards. Founded in 1953, with the first vintage being produced in 1957, Hanzell Vineyards focuses on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (although they do offer an excellent cabernet sauvignon, which has lovely notes of dark cherry, blackberry, cherry tobacco, cedar and anise). Just note that wine tastings at Hanzell Vineyards are by appointment only.
Later on, indulge in an afternoon tasting at Porter Creek Vineyards, where knowledgeable sommeliers guide you through their award-winning Pinot Noirs, each sip a revelation of the land's unique character. For a contrasting experience, head to Domaine Carneros, a sparkling wine producer crafting world-class bubbles in the Carneros appellation. Their elegant estate, perched atop a scenic knoll, offers panoramic views of the vineyards and a chance to savor their expressive Blanc de Blancs and rich Brut Rosé.
As the afternoon wanes, explore the charming town of Healdsburg, a haven of art galleries, artisanal shops, and Michelin-starred restaurants. For dinner, head to the truly magnificent, three Michelin starred Single Thread Farms. Chef Kyle Connaughton's meticulously crafted tasting menu is an ode to seasonality. The plating, decor, service and, most importantly, dishes are absolutely breathtaking. For another great option, check out Little Saint, a not-so-little 100% plant-based spot offering both grab-and-go items (in the cafe downstairs) and a multi-course price fixe menu (upstairs). There wine list, by the way, is no joke, boasting over 500 bottles onsite and a well educated staff capable of honing in on exactly what your palette is craving (even if you aren't so sure yourself).
Finally, if it's a really special night, consider Cyrus (a bit further north, in Geyersville). Admittedly, this one is a bit of an indulgence (as it will lighten the weight of your wallet pretty considerably), but what they are offering is so much more than just an excellent, multi-course tasting menu (with both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options). Here you'll be guided through multiple distinct dining stages. Upon arrival, you'll enter the Bubbles Lounge, where you're greeted with some truly magnificent wines and cocktails and a medley of canapés, each designed to illicit a response from one of the five basic tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami). Your then invited to lounge comfortably in the leather chairs or wander the gardens, soaking in the gorgeous vineyard views. From their, you're guided to the Kitchen Table, where you can engage directly with the chefs as you watch their mad artistry at work, before being whisked away to your table in the main dining room. The evening ends as you work your way through the Chocolate Room, where you will be presented with a gift of delicious house-made chocolates. It's truly a one of a kind experience.
Day 2: 24 Hours of Opulence in Napa Valley
For day two, we're headed to the neighboring Napa Valley, with its rolling hills cloaked in vines and its promise of exquisite wines. It's the kind of place in which one could happily spend eternity. If you don't have eternity, though, worry not, as we've planned a fantastic 24 hours in Napa for you. So relax, it's time for some pampering!
As your base camp, we'd strongly suggest the palatial Auberge du Soleil, where French-inspired architecture meets panoramic vineyard views. Savor a breakfast befitting a king on their one of kind terrace – think roasted pork belly (with geoduck, scallion congee and black vinegar sauce) or the whipped marinated tofu (with wild shrimp, baby fennel and yuzu emulsion). This is what the folks who run the Auberge Resorts Collection hotels are known for - gorgeous scenery, excellent service and the kind of menus dreams are made of. It's no wonder that they've retained their Michelin star for 16 consecutive years (the 15,000 bottle wine cellar doesn't hurt either). [For another of our favorite Auberge resorts and restaurants, check out our post about the Best Restaurants in the Mid-Hudson Valley, which includes Clay at Wildflower Farms Auberge Resorts Collection].
With your belly full and your mind set to calm, it's time to embark on a tour of some of our favorite Napa wineries. First, there's Chateau Montelena, a winery steeped in history. Nestled at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains, this Napa Valley icon rose to fame after its Chardonnay bested French giants at the 1976 Paris Tasting (a bottle of that vintage is, interestingly enough, now located in the Smithsonian). Let a knowledgeable guide at Chateau Montelena unveil the secrets behind their world-renowned wines. For an ultra-luxury experience, have their concierge curate a unique moment for you and your companions. And of course, there are some absolute staples that must be visited. Stag's Leap Winery practically put Napa on the map when a bottle of its 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon won the famous 1976 Paris Tasting and offers an excellent tasting experience. And then there's Cakebread, Opus One Winery, etc., etc. (the list goes on and on - just take breaks in between and remember to eat, drink plenty of water and maybe call an Uber).
Speaking of eating, for lunch, head to La Toque, where Chef Ken Frank has been wowing visitors from all around the world for more than 40 years. La Toque has, for good reason, earned the Wine Spectator Grand Award (one of only 93 recipients in the entire world) for its truly exquisite wine program. The six course Chef's tasting menu is an ever-changing love letter to seasonality and locality, and really must be experienced with the wine pairing. We had the Gulf Red Snapper “a la plancha” and arroz Bomba Negro with Spanish chorizo, piquillo pepper and saffron emulsion last time we were there (and we now fully believe that everything needs a saffron emulsion).
After this delightful culinary adventure, retreat to the serenity of Solage (another Auberge Resort Collection location (we've become a bit obsessed)), a haven of geothermal pools and transformative spa treatments. Unwind with a couples massage using grape seed oil, a uniquely Napa indulgence, before indulging in tea service on their scenic redwood deck.
Day 3: San Francisco's Finest
Our final leg takes us to San Francisco, that well-traveled city by the bay. It's the last day of your trip, so immerse yourself in opulence at The Fairmont, the grand dame of San Francisco hotels that has hosted presidents and celebrities since 1907. For a truly decadent experience, book a room with a balcony overlooking the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. Alternatively, go out with a bang at one of our favorites - The St. Regis San Francisco - but be prepared to hob-nob with celebrities, NBA stars and others enjoying the highlife. It's a St. Regis, so you should absolutely expect high end bedding, soaking tubs, an extensive room service list and truly excellent service.
If you need a bit of a break from all of the food and drink of the first two days, check out the fine arts on display at the de Young Museum, or the Legion of Honor, a Beaux-Arts palace perched atop a hill overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge. Its collection boasts European art from the Middle Ages to the 20th century, including masterpieces by Michelangelo, Rodin, Monet, O'Keefe, and Rembrandt. For a dose of more contemporary culture, explore the vibrant Yerba Buena Gardens neighborhood, home to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and a plethora of art galleries.
For a truly unique finale, consider an intimate dining experience at Spruce. Chef Mark Sullivan's innovative tasting menus (featuring produce grown, almost entirely, at the all organic SMIP Ranch) are a revelation, stretching the boundaries of what contemporary Californian cuisine can be. And with a 3,500 strong list of available wines, you have pairing options, LOTS of pairing options. Another great option is Mister Jiu's, a modern Chinese-American masterpiece that offers both a small, but well-balanced, tasting menu (featuring, for example, a chicken, shrimp and pig trotter dumpling, with preserved yuzu and black truffle). It's comfortable, communal and delicious, and elegantly blends our love of food with our love of one another.
Bonus: Redwood Reverence
If you have an additional day, we strongly suggest you add a trip to Redwood National and State Parks (about 4 hours north of Healdsburg or 6 hours north of San Francisco). If you do, prepare yourself for a deeply meditative experience as you enter the emerald embrace of this ancient forest. Free to enter (and without the hassle and delay of entrance stations found at many National Parks), these towering and ancient giants (some of which are up to 2,000 years old), will enliven your senses and calm your mind. If you have never seen these behemoths in person, trust us when we say that no picture can do them justice. They are absolutely awe inspiring. You are free to explore on your own, although a guided hike with Redwood Adventures allows for an intimate exploration of this ecological marvel.
As always, our three day northern california food and wine travel guide is merely a starting point, a gently colored canvas, if you will, awaiting your personal touches. Perhaps you'd like to extend your stay in wine country, delving deeper into the world of Zinfandels and Cabernets. Or maybe a detour to from the wine glass the beer stein at one of San Francisco's many excellent craft breweries. Northern California has something for every discerning traveler, so you are sure to find a symphony of experiences tailored just to your needs.