It's on every "must visit" list, but is Porto, Portugal as magical as all of those social media images make it out to be? We set out, over three days in late summer, to find out. Our conclusion? A resounding, and immediate, yes! We didn't need three days to fall in love with Porto - it was instantaneous. We were smitten with its colorful atmosphere, perfect weather, and warm, welcoming inhabitants. The second largest city in Portugal (after Lisbon), Porto is a beautiful city, packed with culinary delights large and small, fantastic wine, more history than you can shake a stick at and stunning architecture. It has rightfully made its way on to every travel and food lover's short list.
To help you plan your first trip, here are our (non-exhaustive) picks for some of the best things to do on your first trips to Porto, Portugal.
Cruise the River Douro.
Yes, it may be a bit touristy, but there is no better way to get your bearings within Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia (it's sister city on the opposite side of the river) than via a cruise along the River Douro. We opted for a private boat excursion, lasting between two and four hours, with a wine and cheese tasting that was fantastic. They can be a bit more costly than the larger group tours, obviously, but the more intimate nature of the private cruise is a wonderfully relaxing way to start your trip. As an added bonus, we were able to spend some time chatting with the captain (a Porto native whose English was flawless, as is the case for many in Porto), who gave us a number of great local tips and restaurant suggestions which paid off immensely. Alternatively, you could opt for the more economical larger group tours, which are often as cheap as about $17 (USD) per person and which give you a quick tour of the six bridges crossing the River Douro.
Dom Luis I Bridge.
Speaking of which, a first trip to Porto would be incomplete if it didn’t include a visit to the Dom Luis I Bridge. Finished in 1886, this gorgeous double-deck metal arch bridge connecting Porto with Vila Nova de Gaia (where some of the world's most famous port makers maintain tasting rooms, cellars and restaurants (think, Cálem, Graham's, Cockburn's and Taylor Fladgate)), provides a stunning vantage point from which to take in the splendor of both cities, as well as the river itself. It's a busy site (and watch out for the light rail that runs up the middle of it), but it is one of the best ways to take in vast swaths of the cities all at once, and a great vantage point from which to plan where it is that you'll wander to next.
A quick note about those port tasting locales mentioned above - while some allow walk-ins, they are very popular spots, so it's usually best to make reservations (which can include private and semi private tours). If port is your thing, Vila Nova de Gaia has you covered.
Porto Cathedral and Areas North
While there are a lot of stunning cathedrals throughout Portugal, there is something special about the Roman Catholic Porto Cathedral. The beginnings of this massive stone work overlooking the river date back to the middle to late 12th century, with significant alterations in the Baroque style of the 18th century (including one of the first uses of the flying buttress in Portugal) as well as some Gothic touches throughout. Also known as the Sé Cathedral or the Sé do Porto, this National monument is easily the most important religious building in the city. The Cathedral is, as of the time of writing, free to enter. A view of the famed cloister, however, will cost € 3, but it is totally worth it.
If Catholic architecture is your cup of tea, there are no shortages of very walkable historical sites in Porto (in addition to the Sé Cathedral). There's the Igreja e Torre dos Clérigos, a mid-18th century Baroque style church with a 75 meter bell tower (located about a 10 minute walk from the Sé Cathedral). There's also the Church of Saint Ildefonso (Igreja Paroquial de Santo Ildefonso), with it's stunning facade of traditional blue and white azulejo tiles, and the Igreja do Carmo (all of which are fairly close to one another).
Also, if you're your still hankering from some jaw-dropping man made structures, head north up the Avenue Dom Alfonso Henriques and onto the Avenue Dos Aliados (named after a 14th century alliance between Portugal and England). There you can bask in the eye-catching Neoclassical, Beaux-arts and Art Nouveau architecture encasing both sides of the avenue. The architecture in this city is just stunning.
A note about traveling throughout Porto - if you are able, we strongly suggest taking in as much of the city as you can on foot, although be prepared that it is a hilly, older city, with narrow walkways and steep staircases. Indeed, there are some stunning old stone climbs, like the Escadas das Sereias and the Escadas do Codeçal (from which you can reach the upper deck of the Dom Luis I Bridge from the riverside Cais da Riberia), for example, but these are not for those with knee or heart conditions. Fortunately, the city is serviced by numerous car services, trolleys, and light rail, so getting around is quite easy.
Shopping.
Porto is no slouch in the shopping department either. From Avenue Dos Aliados, head right a few blocks down Rua de Gonçalo Cristóvão to Rua de Santa Catarina for some serious shopping and people watching. This market hotspot, probably the most iconic shopping area in Porto, has everything from international brands, to local street vendors (as well as gorgeous stone sidewalks), and is a great place to pick up both necessitates inadvertently left at home and gifts for your loved ones.
There's also the Avenida da Boavista, the longest avenue in Porto, featuring a number of well known clothing brands. And then there is the Vandoma Fleamarket along the banks of the river. Open Saturdays from 8am to 1pm, this open air craft and flea market offers up all manner of reasonably priced (largely second-hand) items, from souvenirs to hats to cutlery and everything in between.
Where to Eat.
Porto is replete with excellent dining options, from the simple and cheap (sometimes extremely cheap!) to artisanal magic crafted by some of Portugal's finest chefs.
Along those lines, we believe that it would be sacrilegious to spend time in Porto and not eat at least one pastel de nata, that quintessential Portuguese treat consisting of a crunchy, flaky puff pastry filled with a sweet and creamy custard. These fluffy and decadent, handheld bits of heaven are perfect with a cup of coffee or cappuccino. Some of our favorite places to enjoy these tasty treats include Mercador Café (a little family run cafe on Rua das Flores), Majestic Café (one of the most stunning cafes in Porto (perhaps in all of Europe), with its roots dating back to 1922) and Maison Gourmet (located inside the Bom Sucesso Market, noted below), but you could make it a full time job bouncing around the city trying the many, delicious variations of this classic treat. Better still, they often only cost about € 1.1 (sometimes less), which is absurdly cheap given how delicious they are. Moreover, while pastel de nata marks the appropriate entry point into the wonderful and hugely diverse world of Portuguese baked goods, ending your exploration there would be a mistake. There are just too many other amazing iterations to try, from the Pão de Deus (literally, "God's Bread") to the Bolo De Arroz (a ridiculously buttery rice muffin), so pace yourself, you've got some sugar coming your way.
If you're in need of something a bit more substantive, but no less delicious, Casa Guedes Oliveiras (which just opened in 2023 and is the fourth location for this restaurant group), is located at the corner of Rua Das Oliveiras and Rua da Conceição. A lively, delicious and reasonably priced restaurant, you want to hone in on classic Portuguese sandwiches here like the Pernil or Presunto. The papas bravas are great as well, and, when combined with a cold local beer and some fall-of-the bone pork shoulder, make for perfect long lunch. It is a perfect spot at which to grab lunch (or all day breakfast) and is much less touristy that some of the places down by the river.
For dinner, we were blown away by Cozinha das Flores, which is located on Rua das Flores (a beautiful street surrounded by shops and eateries and shut off to anything but foot traffic during the busier hours of the day). Helmed by Nuno Mendes (of Liboeta fame), this fantastic dinner spot has one foot firmly rooted in Northern Portuguese tradition and the other free to land wherever Chef Mendes and his team choose to place it. The results are equal parts mouthwatering and imaginative. We had, amongst many dishes, the grilled John Dory fish (with fermented greens, smoked butter and a roe sauce) and, for dessert, the mind bending sleeper dish entitled "Milk" (consisting of varied forms and textures of, well, milk (a failed description that doesn't do this dish justice - it has to be experienced to be understood).
Another great option is the Dona Maria Restaurant, located in Lodge Hotel, on the Vila Nova de Gaia side of things. The decor is earthy and warm, with splashes of caramel and bronze throughout. The dishes are traditional but elevated and done right (think a Bacalhau (a salted cod Portugal made famous) that will knock your socks off). And that view? One of the best in the city.
If you're not quite sure what you want (and we can't blame you, given the huge variety of delicious restaurants, big and small, throughout the area), check out Mercado Bom Sucesso (the Bom Sucesso Market). Half an eclectic collection of edible delights (for example, artisanal chocolates and traditional Portuguese sopas) and half cultural art center (it routinely hosts live music, art exhibitions and other cultural events), if you came to Porto for the food and culture (why else do we go anywhere?), Mercado Bom Sucesso is definitely worth a visit.
And yet another great option, on the Vila Nova De Gaia side of the river, is the Mercado Beira Rio, a riverside food market with more than 12 food and drink establishments, from Brazilian feijoada at Botequim à Brasileira, to one of three different Chef Manuel Almeida restaurants (including two cod and fish focused must trys).
Where to Stay in Porto, Portugal
Without question, one of our favorite hotels in Porto (maybe the world, thus far) is the Torel Avantgarde. Tucked away on quiet Rua da Restauração, this award-winning boutique hotel has one of the best views of the Duoro River and neighboring Vila Nova de Gaia. What's more, you can enjoy that view from the hilltop infinity pool and outside bar, or their delicious onsite, glass encased restaurant - Digby. Each of the hotels' 60 rooms pays tribute to a famous avant-garde artist, with no two rooms the same and all gorgeously appointed. The service is excellent -- every staff member we met was friendly, spoke multiple languages and was extremely helpful to first time visitors such as ourselves). Better yet, the hotel sits just outside of the old city and so is both within walking distance of main tourist attractions (it is, for example, only 1.1 kilometers from the Bolsa Palace) but also off the beaten bath, remaining serene and comforting even in the busy summer months.
Another great option, on the opposite side of the river is The Yeatman, a stunning, six story wine and food focused hotel with an unmatchable view of the Porto side of the river. Wine and food really are the centerpiece here (seriously, even the outdoor infinity pool is decanter shaped). It's onsite restaurant experience, The Yeatman Gastronomic Restaurant, boasts two Michelin stars (as of the time of writing) and has both a wine pairing and a non-alcoholic pairing option (something we saw a fair amount of in Portugal, and which we wish restaurants in the United States and elsewhere would adopt). Given its position along the hill, every room of the Yeatman has a view worthy of a postcard. This place is nothing short of stunning.
We could go on and on about how amazing Porto and its people are. From the second we walked into our hotel, we were greeted with a genuine sense of warmth and welcome. The food really is something unique - love of craft, history and location is obvious almost everywhere we went. And, at least for the time being, it remains relatively inexpensive when compared to many other popular European or other Western cities. It's no wonder that the number of foreign residents in Portugal (specifically Porto and Lisbon) has been on the rise. After just three days there, Porto rocketed to the top of our future digital nomad/retirement locales. It absolutely belongs on your bucket list.
Until next time, travel well my friends.
~The Small Bites, Big Planet team.
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