When you think of Maine, there's a fair chance that you think of lighthouses, fresh lobster and big, burly fishermen. Some of that may be deserved - there are 65 lighthouses in Maine and the State is the largest producer of lobster in the United States (full disclosure: we did not look into statistics as to the burliness of its fishermen, and so cannot comment on same). And part of this is, of course, the charm of a city like Portland, particularly if you're coming from a larger metropolitan area like New York, Los Angeles, etc. Unlike with some of those megacities, one isn't readily lost in Portland's size and scope, relegated to being one of untold millions milling about, searching for food, fun and a small sliver of space to temporarily claim as your own. With a population of just under 70,000 and a total area of about 69 square miles (48 of which are water), Portland is, objectively, much smaller than those massive cities. Perched on the coast, but largely surrounded by farmland and wild woodland areas, the city deftly strikes a balance between verdant country-side and cosmopolitan cityscape, between honest, blue collar, no-nonsense port city and something teetering awfully close to an American iteration of haute cuisine (but without many of the, often unnecessary, fuss and frills). It's this blending of slightness, of proximity to sea, abundant farmland and unscathed wild places, coupled with Maine's famed individualism, that coalesces into something unique - a food focused city that is largely without pretense, almost as though it was formed around a single culinary mantra - to, first and foremost, make good food. It has no need for foams, deconstructed dishes, floor to ceiling windows in a 70th floor dining room, or three month waiting lists. It's too busy, too focused, too honest in these intentions.
All of this is to say that Portland punches well above its weight in the culinary department, with an extremely high concentration of exquisite eateries in a relatively small space. As a result, Portland has been a foodie destination for some time now with almost innumerable exemplary restaurants - many more than we could reasonably list here. Thus, we're offering up just a few of our favorites. Feel free to use this as a general guide, but by all means go off path. Choose your own culinary adventure: you might very well be surprised by what you find.
Hand punched Belgian-style frites, twice-fried in duck fat. Go ahead, read that again. That short sentence should be enough to get you packing for your trip to Portland, Maine. Just in case it isn't, Duckfat ups the ante by taking those golden, crispy delicious fries, sprinkling same with locally sourced cheese curds and chives, drizzling that savory medley in duck gravy and topping the whole beautiful shebang with a Black Earth Forest Farm duck egg and slow cooked duck confit. Yes, it is as rich and decadent as it sounds. It is utterly delicious. They offer a whole slew of other dishes (including vegetarian friendly plates, like their roasted beets with smoked whipped feta, cara cara oranges, za'atar spiced pistachios and almonds and mixed baby lettuces with a lemon vinaigrette), so not everything has to be about the fries (but, c'mon). Be aware that it's a small spot and they don't take reservations (it's all first come, first served). They do, however, provide wait-listees with a pager with enough range that you can visit neighboring businesses while you anxiously await the buzz of impending gastronomic pleasure.
And while you're waiting, we suggest you wander a block down Middle St. and half a block up Hampshire St. for a beer and a snack at Tomaso's Canteen. This place flies under the radar a bit, perhaps because of its size (it's a tiny former garage) or its simple frills attitude (the de minimis nature of its one page website should be your first hint), but don't sleep on it. What looks to be a simple dive bar is much more. Yes, they have Pabst on tap, so you can get your cheap beer fix if that's your thing. But they also carry a healthy spread of craft beers, an assortment of sausages, lighter bites like their brussels sprouts (with almonds, dried cranberries, bacon and dijon butter) or more substantial eats like Carol's Tomh Mi (a play on a Vietnamese banh mi, with chicken, pickled carrots, daikon, jalapenos, sweet mayo and Thai chili sauce). It's also a similar distance from Eventide (see below), which can also have a serious waitlist, so Tomaso's is perfectly situated to become your Portland home base, as it did ours.
Eventide Oyster Co.
Like skilled sommeliers for these delicious little bi-valves, the waitstaff at Eventide Oyster Co. will deftly organize your oyster indulging experience, providing direction as you glide from so-briny-you'll-think-you're-licking-the-inside-of-a-decades-old-lobster-cage to sugar sweet; from weighty, lingering and buttery like a Chardonnay, to clean and crisp like Pinot Gris. The variety of flavor and style of these primarily locally caught oysters is stunning. At last count, Eventide carried 14 different types, each its own delectable experience. Of course, they have other offerings, including their revered brown butter lobster roll (on a bao bun), but you can't go here and not order at least some oysters. It has, after all, been largely (dare we say) responsible for the recent resurgence of the American oyster bar and has an epic, almost cult-like following (of which we are card carrying members). To say that it is a bit famous is an understatement. As an example, at a recent one night popup event at The Drowned Lands Brewery in Hudson Valley, NY (see our Hudson Valley blog post for more information), which is no less than 5 hours from Portland, the line wrapped through the building, taking approximately 2 hours to navigate. Impatiently waiting, whilst profusely salivating, we met people from NY, NJ, CT and beyond, many of whom had travelled 3 or more hours solely to take in this small sliver of the Eventide experience. We assure you, it was worth it. If oysters are your thing, there are few places better than Eventide.
Set in an unassuming one story brick building, with exposed wooden beams, large, multi-paned windows, and an open kitchen (complete with spitted chicken sizzling over open flame and a well-worn and deftly utilized brick oven), Fore Street paints such a welcoming scene we're positive that once you set foot inside you won't want to leave. An institution since 1996, Fore Street is easily one of the best restaurants in Portland. This has not gone unnoticed, as the restaurant has been piling up well-deserved accolades, including Chef Sam Hayward's James Beard award for Best Chef Northeast and two nods from Gourmet Magazine as one of the top 50 restaurants in the United States. The menu changes daily and seasonally, but, being heavily influenced by Portland's surrounding environs, expect an expertly crafted combination of fire-kissed dishes such as a turnspit roasted marinated half-chicken, grilled moulard foie gras, wood grilled marinated squid and house made chilled meats and offal. Make reservations early, as this one can be hard to get (for good reason).
A post about some of the best restaurants in Portland, Maine which didn't mention Central Provisions wouldn't be post worth reading. Everything, and we mean everything, about Central Provisions speaks to love of craft. Set in a former East India Trading Company storehouse, with chairs, doors and bar tops that have been handcrafted by local woodworkers and blacksmiths using largely repurposed and reclaimed materials, the decor is a history lesson in craftmanship. But don't let that historicity fool you - Central Provision's culinary reach, directed by Chef and co-owner Chris Gould, stretches far beyond the local, embracing flavors from all over the world in captivating, inventive ways. Here you'll find spicy Korean kimchi next to a Spanish chopped salad (with candied chorizo and manchego), or fried cauliflower (served with feta, mint, apple and and an earthy spice mix popular in some Arabic cuisine known as ras el hanout) set against the finger-licking simplicity of suckling pig (with apple brown butter and marcona almonds). It's chic and elevated without being pretentious, curious and innovative without, somehow, losing focus. It is, in fact, an excellent example of what Portland as a whole seems to be - honest, creative and delicious.
Hot Suppa is a fantastic ode to American breakfast/brunch. It has a definite Southern tilt to it, so don't expect a tasting menu of light, vegetable focused dishes. This is stick to your ribs kind of food, like their barbecue pulled pork eggs benedict, their Scrambalya (chicken and smoked sausage jambalaya, scrambled egg and cheddar, with hash browns or grits) and their traditional biscuit and sausage gravy. Hot Suppa strikes a colorful, boisterous pose - a sort of excited diner with a Southern flair and is an excellent way to fuel a day of wandering and cocktail sipping. As with many of the restaurants on this list, they are a first come first served location (no reservations taken), so get your name in early or be prepared to wait a bit. Either way, this spot is on all of the "best of Portland" lists for a reason. It's worth the wait.
Portland Hunt + Alpine Club. This small cocktail and tapas-type snack spot is nothing short of astonishing. With a design that's decidedly Scandinavian (think clean, with a hint of aged-wood rusticism and tinged with a medley of oak and bergamot), this two-time James Beard semi-finalist for Outstanding Bar Program has garnered numerous "best cocktail bar in America" nods. As a result, we expected to be wowed in the drink department, and Portland Hunt + Alpine Club did not disappoint. We opted for some classics, including the house Old Fashioned and the Forest Martini (vodka, aquivit, blanc vermouth, cocchi and orange bitters), as well as a few more modern concepts like the Alpine Negroni, made with blanco tequila, vermouth, the earthy, bitter and not-used-enough apertif that is suze, and yellow chartreuse. And to help you maintain your balance (physically and mentally), and what we weren't expecting, was the excellence of its small bite offerings. We had the Lil' Devils (perfectly prepared Maine deviled eggs, with trout roe, dijon mustard and chives) and an eye catching anchovy, dill and radish combination on crunchy toast. Even their plating is gorgeous (see below). If you're headed to Portland, find a way to include Portland Hunt + Alpine Club in your plans. You can thank us later.
Liquid Riot, located at Union Wharf overlooking the Fore River as it pours into Casco Bay, is a master of many trades. It's a brewery, concocting myriad suds, from the more classic Herbie (a dry hopped Session Ale) to its more atypical Persuasion (a port barrel aged Sour Brown Ale on local Montmorency cherries, with a blend of wild yeasts and microbes). As if perfecting the art of malts and stouts wasn't enough, Liquid Riot is also an accomplished distillery producing a varied medley of whiskeys, rum, bierschnaps (a high proof spirit hailing from Bavaria and made from fermented barley and hops, the result of which is then distilled and rested in used oak barrels giving it a shimmering golden hue) and Fernet Michaud (their multi-award winning Italian-style amaro bitter, infused with 22 botanicals, roots and herbs, and aged for 5 months in Maine Blueberry Wine barrels). As if that wasn't enough, and it should be enough, Liquid Riot conjures up an impressive spread of shareable bites, including their Maine-based cheese board (with Fuzzy Udder Landslide Gouda, a 60 day aged unpasteurized organic jersey cow cheese, strawberry jam and lavosh crackers) and the curry roasted cauliflower (with tahini vinaigrette, Bhel Puri (an Indian inspired puffed rice and tamarind sauce mix), peanuts, dried mango, mint and honey). Basic neighborhood watering hole this is not. Indeed, Liquid Riot is the perfect place to spend an afternoon, soaking in the sun on their back deck, and plotting your next gluttonous step.
As noted at the top, there is so much to this small, walkable city. It seems that every corner is dotted with amazing bars and eateries, all worthy of your time and hard earned money. The above are just a few examples of Portland, Maine's best restaurants and bars. We encourage you to experience the free loving, creative and delicious beauty that is Portland, Maine. Once you do, we have a sneaking suspicion that, like us, you'll keep going back.
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